<DIV class=ForumPostContentText>Basic Guide to Keeping Goldfish. <BR><BR><BR>I hope newbies and more experinced fishkeepers will find this usefull. I'll be adding extra bits as i go on <IMG alt=Smile src="http://fishcrazy.co.uk/emoticons/emotion-1.gif" mce_src="http://fishcrazy.co.uk/emoticons/emotion-1.gif"> <BR><BR>Aquarium<BR><BR>The goldfish aquarium is the main thing to ensure a long, happy life for your fish. Bowls and small tanks are not suitable accommodation for goldfish, as they simply aren’t big enough. Goldfish need at least eight UK gallons or around 36 litres of water each, and some types, such as comets and shubunkins do better with around 12 gallons each (54 litres), as they need more swimming room than a fancy goldfish.&nbsp; So, the minimum size of aquarium for a single goldfish is 18”x12”x12” (45 cm x 30cm x 30cm).&nbsp; However, bigger tanks are always better because they don’t tend to fluctuate in water chemistry as much as smaller tanks do. <BR><BR>Bowls are the worst thing to keep a goldfish in, as they have nowhere near enough volume, and nowhere near big enough surface area. They also cannot be filtered effectively. Do not be fooled by clever advertising that so called “high tech” bowls are good to keep goldfish in, because they’re not. Even if you get the larger version (60L) of one make, you could only comfortably house one fish in there.&nbsp; <BR><BR>Tank Position<BR><BR>Ideally, the tank should be on a solid, flat surface, within easy reach of a power out let, but away from windows and doors, as excessive light from windows and glass doors can cause unsightly, but harmless algae in the tank. Glass tanks should always have a layer of polystyrene or cork under them, as if placed on an uneven surface, glass aquaria may crack. Another reason to keep the tank away from doors and windows is because of the draft that may come off them, which could make the water temperature drop too fast, and stress the fish.&nbsp; Aquariums should also be kept away from sources of loud noise, as the vibrations from speakers ect transfer easily to the water, and can cause the fish to become stressed. <BR><BR><BR>Filtration and Heating<BR><BR>Goldfish don’t need a heater in the tank, as they are by nature, a coldwater fish. However, if they are kept in a very cold room then they would do best with a heater set at around 18 degrees C (64 degrees F).&nbsp; Goldfish do not do well at tropical temperatures because water carries less dissolved oxygen at warmer temperatures, which could make them gasp at the surface. <BR><BR>Fancy goldfish aren’t as hardy as single tailed varieties, so they should have slightly warmer temperatures, between 20 degrees C (68 degrees F) and 22 degrees C (71 degrees F) would be perfect for them. <BR><BR>Filtration is the most important thing in any fish tank, as it takes raw fish waste, and turns it into less toxic substances. This is called cycling, and is explained fully here http://www.fishcrazy.co....3&amp;topic=11035.0 . When you are setting up a goldfish tank, or any fish tank, please follow this guide before you add your fish. This is so their immune systems aren’t weakened by the ammonia, which can affect them for the rest of their lives.&nbsp; As it damages fragile gills, which in turn means that the fish may not get enough oxygen and this may affect the internal organs, especially the brain.&nbsp; <BR><BR><BR>I would always suggest that you buy a filter that is rated for the tank size above yours, as it will have a bigger surface area for bacteria to grow on, and the higher flow rate means that the water will carry more oxygen. Both of these factors mean that the filter is more effective, as the beneficial bacteria in the filter need oxygen to live. <BR><BR><BR>Lighting<BR><BR>Unless you plan to have plants in your tank, then lighting is not essential unless the tank is going to be in a very dark room. It is strongly advisable to get a proper aquarium starter for your lighting, as it is splash proof. Please do not try to botch together some lighting from household lighting, as it will not be splash proof and may electrocute you or the fish.&nbsp; The best type of lighting to have is fluorescent tubes, as these can be bought cheaply in aquatic supply shops, and many have the right colour to bring out the best colours in your fish.&nbsp; Tubes bought from DIY stores can be used to light your aquarium if it is fish only, but please beware that many of these tubes look very yellow, and will give your tank a yellow tint. <BR><BR>If you’re planning to have a few plants in your tank, then a specific plant tube would be the best with a white aquarium tube to help balance the colour of your fish.&nbsp; Reflectors are useful if you have limited space for lighting, as they can almost double the amount of light the tank receives, as they throw the light from the tube back into the tank that otherwise would be lost. <BR><BR>Tubes can be bought in two ways, either by the length of the tube, or by the wattage of the tube. Please note, these are not the same, and get the wattage that will best fit your starter unit. Units can power lower wattage tubes, but, the tube will burn out more quickly. </DIV> <DIV class=ForumPostContentText>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV class=ForumPostContentText>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV class=ForumPostContentText>Goldfish foods and feeding.<BR><BR><BR>All goldfish need a good quality basic diet, such as Tetrafin flake, or Tetrafin Gold Japan pellets. Sinking pelleted foods are good for fancy fish, as they don’t gulp down air like they do when eating floating foods and flake. If your fish won’t eat pellet food, then you can soak the flake in tank water for a few minuets before feeding it to the fish, so that it sinks. Most foods tell you to feed small amount two or three times daily, but really this is unnecessary because fish will thrive on just one meal a day, and feeding once a day will reduce the amount of uneaten food in the tank causing pollution. The amount you feed your fish depends largely on the fish, for example, a large fish will need more food then a very small one. A good rule of thumb is to feed as much as your fish will eat in 5 minutes, any left over is a sign that you’re over feeding. Goldfish will do well on a good quality flake food, but they will do better with live or frozen foods in their diet, as it helps to clear out the fish’s system. Daphnia, brine shrimp and bloodworm are particularly enjoyed by fish. Frozen food is considered better then live because live food has the opportunity to bring disease into the tank, and the act of freezing the frozen foods kills many of the diseases. Many frozen foods are also subjected to radiation, further lessening the chances of bringing disease into the tank. <BR><BR>Most fish get used to being fed at the same time of the day, and feeding time is a good time to observe your fish, and to note and unusual behaviour, and any other abnormalities. Fish will also do well to be starved for one day a week, as this means they can have the chance to clear their gut.&nbsp; Peas are a good remedy for constipation, after starving the fish for a day or so. The most common symptoms of constipation are white, stringy faeces, and a lack of appetite. Peas must be blanched and shelled before being fed to fish. <BR></DIV> <DIV class=ForumPostContentText>Common Problems With Goldfish. <BR><BR><BR>There are several common problems and ailments with goldfish, and those who keep fish will, at sometime in their career encounter one or more of them. <BR><BR>As 99% of all fish problems are due to water quality, then I suggest that a large water change is done before you make any treatments.<BR><BR><BR>Swim bladder Problems.&nbsp; <BR><BR>The main one to be aware of, especially with fancy goldfish, is swim bladder problems. Because of the way the fish’s body is shaped, this can lead to loss of balance, floating to the surface, or sinking to the bottom, and swimming difficulty. Swim bladder problems can be caused by many things, such as feeding too much flake food, not soaking flake before feeding it to the fish, not feeding live food or peas regularly, and rough handling of the fish. <BR><BR>The main way to treat swim bladder is to starve the fish for a day, and then to feed peas or daphnia, as both of these act as a laxative on the fish, and help to push the food and any gas that may be trapped in the fish’s system through.&nbsp; Feeding soaked flake is also very important, as the fish will take air in with the food if the food has just been placed on the surface of the water. Fish that don’t respond to this treatment may need to be housed in a shallow aquarium, as the water pressure on their swim bladder is lessened. For most big fancy goldfish, I’d recommend that the water in these aquaria be just deep enough so that they can grub about in the gravel. This method also works for those fish that have been roughly handled and the fish that have had their bladders bruised by being chased by the males during breeding.<BR><BR><BR>Fin rot and fin problems<BR><BR>Fin rot and eroded fins are common in goldfish, as with most varieties their fins are long and flowing. Many rips and tears in the fins happen when the fish are breeding too. The only time to worry about fin rot is when it becomes severe, and the fin has been eaten away so much that the fin rays are evident, or if the fins become too short.<BR><BR>Salt is a very effective in the treatment of fin rot, as it reduces stress on the fish and also helps the fish to fight the bacteria or fungi that causes fin rot. Use sea salt, or aquarium salt, as the anti-caking agents in table salt are highly poisonous to fish. Use aquarium salt at the “tonic” level, and sea salt at one teaspoon per 10 litres/ 2 gal. If the fin rot persists after this, then a treatment such as ESHA 2000 or Melafix may be used.&nbsp; <BR><BR><BR>If the fish has been housed alone, and there is no way it could have damaged it’s self then the problem is environmental, and small daily water changes should be done until the fish has recovered.<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR></DIV>